Skyland Gardening

Algae Problem & Pond Algae Control

Pond Algae Control 

Pond Algae
Algae, in its various forms, can be a real nuisance in a pond. Green water is caused by unicellular algae that proliferate in an enclosed and nutrient-rich environment. Algae thrive in bright sunlight. It is, therefore, generally a summer problem. It is made worse by long hours of sunshine and high temperature. However, aquatic plants and freshwater plants are higher in nature’s chain than single celled algae, so as the plants begin to flourish and take up the excess nutrients, algae problems tend to decrease.

Once plants begin to grow, and water lilies as well as other surface growing plants provide an adequate amount of shade, the algae no longer obtain the high levels of sunlight and nutrients they require and begin to disappear. Adding more aquatic plants, particularly the submerged varieties, can help to reduce levels of algae, and it is generally ponds with insufficient plant growth that have the algae problems.

Green water indicates an imbalance in your pond, but its mild presence in a wildlife pond will have some benefits. It provides a superb primary food for many microorganisms and invertebrates and can fuel a really beneficial biodiversity in a pond. Green water is also full of colour-enhancing carotenoids, which, if your fish are ornamental, will help to produce stunning and vibrant colours. Extreme cases of green water should be avoided because at night, it can cause severe dissolved oxygen depletion, which threatens the life of any fish and invertebrates.

Pond Algae Control
It is important that you do not empty your pond full of green water. Although that may seem like the best thing to do, nothing could be farther from the truth. Emptying the pond will temporarily alleviate the green water, but the minerals in tap water will cause the refilled pond to become thick with algae very quickly. These salts and minerals are one of the causes of algae and take a long time to break down. If you are looking for a quick fix for green water, and your pond is not new, use one of the many proprietary algae treatments available from garden centers and pond shops. With some patience and continual creative planting, you should see the level of green water in your pond decline to acceptable levels.

Duckweed
Duckweed can be a very frustrating weed. It finds its way into your pond on other plants or via birds. Only a single fragment is required, and under the right conditions it will rapidly divide and quickly cover the whole pond. This can then deprive beneficial submerged plants of light and even prevent gas exchange in still water ponds, leading to anoxic conditions and the telltale “bad eggs” smell.

Duckweed is hard to get rid of; there are no safe chemical treatments. If you have Koi or goldfish in your pond they love to eat duckweed. You can decrease the amount of food you are giving your fish to encourage them to eat the duckweed. You can try leaving a hose running in your pond, causing it to overflow slightly and cause the duckweed to float off.

String Algae
To control string algae, you need to address the cause-rising levels of nutrients (nitrates and phosphates) arriving through food and even in the tap water. Some string-algae treatments involve harsh herbicidal chemicals that address the symptoms, only for the algae to return later. The best approach for string algae is to use natural methods to keep the nutrient levels low, preventing the algae from thriving in the first place.

There are other various bacteria-based remedies that work very effectively, competing for the nutrients and causing the string algae to die back. There are other barley straw-based treatments that break down naturally to release various natural compounds that are effective against algae.

As nutrients inevitably continue to enter the pond, the threat will remain, so you will have to continue treating against the threat of nuisance algae.

If you would like to read more information articles on how to keep your Pond and Fish healthy and thriving visit Koi Pond Guide. There is also 2 FREE pdf downloads on algae control, click here.

This is a website that shows all the effective ways they use to build fish ponds. Casey and her team have been building fish ponds and has an optimal, sure fire, and economical way which is beneficial not only for your pond and fish but for you as well. Visit their site to learn how to create a tranquil space for you and your family. You can always sign up for the 10 part email course for free tips and information on your Koi fish and Koi pond.

Everyone should be able to have a peaceful place where they can relax. The stress of everyday life puts so many demands on you, you need to have a place to refresh, to build your energy back up. A Koi pond is a tranquil spot where you can go to get away from it all. Everyone needs somewhere that will take you back to nature, your Koi pond will be that serene place for you.

Whether you are a Koi Hobbyist or new to the Koi world this website will show you not only how to keep you pond, fish, and plants healthy and thriving, but to create the best tranquil space for you.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Casey_L_Lane

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Koi Pond Maintenance - Need For Regular Partial Water Changes

Koi Pond Maintenance - Need For Regular Partial Water Changes

Whether it is a pond or an aquarium, regular water change is recommended. Actually, partial water changes and it should preferably not be more than 50% of the water at a time. This is because fish (Koi included) does not like sudden changes to their living environment. This change could be in terms of temperature, pH and water chemistry.

Firstly, why are water changes necessary? Can I rely on my filtration system to remove fish waste and other debris like uneaten fish food, dead insects and plant matters?

A good filtration system should be able to trap solid debris through mechanical filtration and allows you to remove them easily during regular filter maintenance. However, mechanical filtration is not 100% efficient. Some of this debris will remain and settled at the bottom of your pond and filter. If not removed, they will accumulate over time and pollute the water.

A good filtration system should have a biological filter in addition to the mechanical filter. The bacteria in biological filter should remove dissolved fish waste like ammonia by converting them to nitrite, and then from nitrite to nitrate. This is done through bacteria action in the biological filter is known as the Nitrification Cycle. Ammonia and nitrite are harmful to fish and must be removed as soon as possible. Although nitrate is relatively harmless to fish, excessive nitrate when allowed to build up in the pond can still harm the fish. Excessive nitrate also leads to excessive algae growth which is not a pleasant sight although Koi feeds on algae.

Evaporation of water does not remove nitrates and other dissolved matters in the pond. Regular topping up your pond to replace water lost through evaporation is not considered a partial water change.

Water plants remove nitrates. Even if you have some water plants in your pond, it is unlikely that the plants can remove the nitrates at a sufficient rate compared to the amount of food consumed and waste produced by the Koi. Some advanced Koi keepers have explored the use of commercially designed trickle tower system to remove nitrates. These are quite bulky and not inexpensive. Most Koi keepers will resort to partial water changes to remove nitrates.

Besides removal of nitrates and other pollutants, some Koi keepers believe that regular water changes allow their Koi to grow better and healthier as minerals and trace elements useful for Koi growth are replenished through the added water. Koi tends to perk up and become more active after a partial water change.

How to do a water change? How frequently must it be done?

The aim is to maintain a stable pond environment with good water quality for your Koi. Therefore, frequent and regular small amount of water changes of about 10% are preferred over ad hoc and larger water changes. If your filter design allows you to carry out pond and filter maintenance and water changes easily, then a weekly interval should be sufficient. You may want to flush the bottom drains or perform other maintenance of your filter system while carrying out your partial water change.

Even with regular water changes, you should monitor the nitrate levels in your pond. Nitrate cause a slight brownish tint to your pond water. Other symptom of excessive nitrates is excessive algae growth! The most accurate way is to measure nitrate and water quality using a water test kit. Commercially available water test kits allow you to measure parameters like pH, nitrite, nitrate and oxygen levels.  Nitrate level should be less than 25 mg/litre. Ad hoc water change is still needed if the water quality if not up to the mark.

Water that is removed will have to be replaced. If you are refilling your pond with tap water from the utility company, you will have to consider the additives to the water. The tap water contains chlorine to kill germs and it is also a fish killer. The chlorine will dissipate from the water naturally after a few hours. Depending on the water you are getting from the utility company, you could potentially do small percentage (less than 20%) of water change without using dechlorinator and not kill your fish. If you have an option to increase aeration to your pond like turning on a fountain or venturi pipes, you should do it. Aeration helps remove chlorine. Refilling the pond through a spray hose helps provides aeration and dissipation of the chlorine from the water as well. If you have to perform larger amount of water change, a dechlorinator to remove chlorine is strongly recommended. In any case, it is better be safe than be sorry.

Jeffrey Lee keeps Koi as a hobby and lives in Singapore.

Visit his website at http://my3ponds.blogspot.com where he shares his experiences with constructing and maintaining his 3 Koi ponds over the past 13 years. The site contains pictures of his ponds and Koi.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jeffrey_HS_Lee

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Water Plants

Water plants are traditionally divided into three categories : floating plants, shallow-water bog or marsh plants and submerged plants. Easy available from garden centers and through mail-order catalogues.

1) Floating Plants

There are two categories of floating plants : free-floaters, which have roots hanging freely in the water, and attached floaters, whose leaves float on the surface but whose roots are attached to the bottom. Floating plants are easy to care for and efficient natural water filters, removing large quantities of nitrogen, phosphate and other substances from the water. They compete with algae for nutrients, thereby minimizing the chance of algal overgrowths.

2) Shallow-water bog or marsh plants

Plants that grow in shallow water with most of the plant above the surface, are included in this category. Many produce vegetation that is quite lush and varied. Bog plants grown in pots and scattered along marginal areas are beautiful additions to pond. Popular plants include the arrowhead plant (Sagittaria latifolia), unbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), pickerel weed (Pontederia cordata), water iris (Iris spp), sweet flag (Acourus calamus), and horsetail (Equisetum hyemale).

3) Submerged Plants
Submerged plants are rooted on the bottom, with their leaves totally below the surface. These plants are often sold for use in freshwater aquariums. Common examples include Cabomba, Elodea, and Ludwigia. Although they are excellent for removing nutrients and carbon dioxide from ponds, they are quicky uprooted and eaten by koi.

4) Sub Plants

New plants to be update

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